Muffins Fabriken: the gem of Skanstull

It’s this time of the year, the holiday season, where friends go back to Canada and very kindly offer to take something back for me. In the past, I would gladly accept their offer and ask for crunchy peanut butter or a specific brand of cookies. You know, the kind of comfort food which can be useful when you live abroad on your own. Having now lived nine out of the last fourteen years in Europe, I still have to find decent peanut butter on the old continent. Not that I am actively looking since I have given up peanut butter about a year or so ago. As a result, when friends asked this year whether they could bring something back for me, I couldn’t think of anything. I am quite happy with everything that Europe has to offer food-wise. But beside peanut butter, there are a few things that are much better in North America. What? you ask. Well, hamburgers for example. As a side note, this is a reminder to European readers that hamburgers are not supposed to be eaten with a fork and a knife. Something else? Muffins! Although, things are improving, at least in this part of Europe. I have already blogged about the Muffin Bakery. And I am very happy to report that I have now found Muffins Fabriken!

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Located on Götgatan at the very southern tip of Södermalm, just before the bridge to Hammarby Sjöstadt, Muffins Fabriken could be easy to miss. But those who have been there know better, and they probably keep the place running. Muffins at Muffins Fabriken come in two sizes: large and huge! And if size matters as far as muffins are concerned, I was quite happy with large.

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I went to Muffins Fabriken a couple of days before Christmas so I had no guilt feelings at all with my double chocolate muffin with vanilla. I also had a cappuccino with the muffin, but to be honest I can only remember the muffin today. I am pretty sure the cappuccino was ok, otherwise I would remember! I do remember the nice coffee beans shaped chocolate served with the cappuccino. Very nice touch, even though I probably did not need anymore chocolate at that point!

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I tend to go to Hammarby Sjöstadt during summer time. I also tend to prefer muffins during winter time. Maybe Muffins Fabriken will become the perfect excuse to visit Hammarby Sjöstadt this winter. The muffin stop on my way there would certainly be a very good incentive. And if it’s really cold maybe I could stop on the way back too! The hot chocolate with cream and marshmallows would be yet an another good reason to go to Muffins Fabriken this winter.

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As I sit in bed on this little morning of Christmas 2013 writing about muffins, I suddenly found the courage to get up and go to the gym. Sure, I enjoy running in itself. But I also enjoy eating and drinking, and in these times of excess, going to the gym might be a necessity more than a choice. Hell, if I train hard enough I might stop for coffee and muffins on my way back!

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Muffins Fabriken, Götgatan 99, Stockholm (Södermalm)

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Veronero: an espresso bar with class

I usually like cafés where I can sit back and relax, read some magazines while enjoying a latté with a nice kanelbullar or some cake. But sometimes, I find myself running from one meeting to another and, while I wish I could take 15-20 minutes to relax in a nice café, all I need is 5 minutes to drink a quick espresso. Thankfully, there are more and more cafés in Stockholm which are made just for this: no tables, no chairs, no newspapers… just a counter and excellent coffee. A few months ago I discovered Sempre. Today, it was Veronero!

Life as an expat comes with many advantages. One of the challenges though is being away from friends and family during special moments like the holiday season. As time passes, I got used to not celebrating Christmas and I totally forgot that it would be chaos in stores today. So, when I headed out at lunch time to run some errands, I quickly abandoned in the face of so many people doing their last-minute Christmas shopping. My stuff could wait a few more days. Since I was out, I decided to check out this café on Vasagatan which I had spotted at my last visit to the International Press Club.

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Veronero feels real. It’s small and the only customer during my short visit was an Italian (Vittorio) who comes from a small place 30 minutes away from Barberino di Mugello (that’s important info folks because I was in Barberino di Mugello during my holidays in Tuscany this summer!). The owner is also Italian but I don’t know where he is coming from! I understood that Vittorio now lives in Stockholm because his daughter lives here. I say “understood” because Vittorio spoke mostly Italian to me, although to be fair he also said a few words in French. The owner only spoke Swedish to me. Now, you can imagine that discussion between two Italian guys and a French Canadian with a mix of Swedish, French and Italian. But that’s also one of the advantages of life as an expat. Especially when the discussion takes place over a nice double espresso.

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Now, before Vittorio realized that I was speaking French, I had to explain in Swedish that I was “really” Canadian. For some reason, Vittoria seemed to think that I was a bit “dark” to be Canadian. With great pride, I managed to explain (again, in SWEDISH), that the colour of our skin had nothing to do with nationality in Canada. That being said, I am still a bit confused from that discussion. First, because people should know better about Canada. This is a country of immigration and Canadians come in all forms, shapes and colours! But also because as far as I can tell, my origins, both on my mother’s and father’s sides, go back to France for centuries. It is not unusual for me to pass for a “local” around the Mediterranean Sea but I never had anyone questioning my Canadian origins 😉

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Veronero is definitely an espresso bar of the 21st century. Everything is clean and high tech. While I am used to cool and innovative stuff in Stockholm, this is the only place where I have paid my coffee by inserting my bank card into an iPad and signing with my finger on the screen. Frankly, I am not quite sure how one can validate a signature made with a finger on an iPad but it seems to work.

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I don’t even know if Veronero is open on weekends. But it doesn’t really matter to me as this is the kind of place where I will go to when I am running between meetings in town. The kind of place where I will go for a quick espresso when I need a little something to keep up with the busy pace at work. That being said, Vittorio did not seem to be in any rush and he was certainly enjoying his time at Veronero. He had enough time to express his concern about the fact that I did not have a wife in Stockholm. He seemed to be somewhat reassured when I told him that I had a girlfriend in Paris. I suspect Vittorio will be at Veronero again for my next visit and I fully expect him to ask for an update on my Paris fiancé!

Veronero Caffé, Vasagatan 50, 111 20 Stockholm (Vasastan)

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Café Pom & Flora: This is not Strindberg’s Vita Bergen

A few weeks ago I was invited to a Francophone dinner at a friend’s place in a part of Söder I don’t know very well: the area around Vitabergsparken. It was a very nice dinner with a mix of French Canadians, French, Belgians and a few French speaking Swedes. I am not quite sure why I have not spent more time in that area. It is very nice and lively. It certainly does not look anything like the description of Vita Bergen from August Strindberg’s Red Room, where the poorest of the poor were living. It took me a while but I had spotted a nice café on my way to dinner that night and I finally made it there today.

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I had a hard time getting out of bed this morning. A bad night of sleep and typical Stockholm fall weather kept me under the blanket a bit longer than usual. While I thought I was a bit late to go out, I was quickly reminded that most shops in Södermalm only opens between 12:00 and 16:00 on Sundays. That did not give me much time to finalize a plan I have for my girlfriend’s birthday. The thing is that I offered her a few gifts with no reasons recently and it came to a point that she insisted that I give her no presents for her birthday. Not fair, if you ask me. And mostly impossible. At the same time, I also know that I have to accept her wishes. So the compromise (at least mine because she has not been part of that discussion) has been to offer her presents with minimal financial value. Well, this will not come as a surprise to most of you, but this is much harder than buying an expensive gift. Anyway, mission accomplished. At least on the shopping part of it. Now it’s time to implement the delivery plan. To be continued. Meanwhile, let’s get back to Café Pom & Flora.

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Café Pom & Flora is, in many ways, a typical Södermalm café. The crowd is a typical Södermalm crowd, with a mix of hipsters, new parents and hipster wannabes. The coffee is good, the staff is friendly and, to my great pleasure, Café Pom & Flora also offers the Kardamumbulle. And it was delicious! Most people around me had ordered the full breakfast, which seems to include nice bread with jam, cheese, cold cuts and yoghurt. Another good reason to go back to Café Pom & Flora in the near future.

I had stopped at my favourite magazine store on Götgatan on my way there to get the latest (at the least the latest one available in Stockholm) Inrockuptibles. I went through most of it except the interview with Bertrant Cantat. Cantat was the lead singer of French band Noir Désir. He killed French actress Marie Trintignant on a drunken night in Vilnius some 10 years ago. He is now out of jail and has a new band called Detroit. I haven’t read the article yet because I still don’t know how I feel about the whole thing. I liked Noir Désir quite a lot. I also thought Marie Trintignant was a good actress. I find it a bit confusing that Cantat is out of jail and has a new life after what happened…

Café Pom & Flora is rather small and I still think I was very fortunate to find a table today, even though the guy sitting next to me clearly thought that nobody should have taken the table next to him. It’s true that it was “cozy” but I don’t mind proximity in a café. Beside, if one doesn’t want to sit too close to a stranger in a café, one should go to chains like Wayne’s coffee (probably the Swedish equivalent to Starbucks) and not to a small neighbourhood café.

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I’ve been rather slow on this blog in recent months. This is by no means because there is a lack of good cafés in Stockholm. It has, at least partly, to do with the fact that I tend to go back to the cafés I like. And I am afraid that with the addition of Café Pom & Flora to my list of cafés I like, the pace of new entries on the blog could get even slower! But I promise to make an effort to explore new cafés. Meanwhile, you can have a look at the menu!

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Café Pom & Flora, Bondegatan 64, 11633 Stockholm (Södermalm)

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Red Pants and a Mustache: New and Improved

Well, kind of. But I am pleased to announce the launch of a new page on this blog: The Coffee Map! Designed for Stockholm residents and visitors (sorry, if you read this blog only because you think I am such a great writer, this new page won’t be of much interest to you!), it allows readers to pick a nice café near their current location. This can be extremely convenient if, for example, you are in an urgent need of good coffee in Kungsholmen and you can only remember the nice ones in Södermalm. Look at the map, identify the nearest blue marker and click on it for a full Red Pants and a Mustache description.

The page for the Coffee Map is also easily accessible from the top menu, right below the photo of Stockholm.

You’re welcome. Now it’s time for coffee!

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Warning: This Post is not about Coffee

… it’s about bragging. Well, kind of. You see, over a year ago – in April 2012 to be precise, I  said here that I had now accepted that I would never run a half marathon under two hours. Sure, it is always nice to see our times go down but I do enjoy running in itself and I did not want the pressure of performing to ruin that pleasure. Well, that was until earlier this year when I did the Paris half marathon with my girlfriend. I had been training quite hard and I was hoping to do a decent time. My girlfriend is in pretty good shape. She does all kind of sports but she had been running very little so I was not sure what to expect. On that day she finished 24 minutes ahead of me. That was a wake up call! Not because I am competitive and cannot accept being slower than her. I was, I am and I will always be. But I realized that if I wanted to keep up with her – not only running, but also hiking and any other sports – I had to step my game up. And I did. To be totally fair, I still haven’t done a half marathon under two hours. But I came damn close this time: 2h00m31s. It was a long road to get there!

2007

Belgrade half marathon: 2h26m

2009

Ottawa Army Run: 2h33m

2010

Ottawa Race weekend: 2h25m

2011

Stockholm half marathon: 2h22m

2012

Kungsholmen half marathon: 2h19m

2013

Paris half marathon: 2h18m

Kungsholmen half marathon: 2h06m

Stockholm half marathon: 2h00m

I have a bunch of friends running a half marathon next weekend, including the Army Run. Most of them are much faster than I am. But that doesn’t matter. What really matters is why are running. And most people I know run to enjoy this after the run (or similar kind of beverages!).

Have a good run all.

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Sempre: a tribute to Tuscany

I had one of the most beautiful vacation of my life this summer. I spent three weeks in Tuscany, in a small village called Barberino Val d’Elsa, somewhere between Florence and Sienna! This was also the first time that I was spending more than a week with my girlfriend. Yep, this relationship started in a long-distance set-up… not ideal but we are making it work and this trip to Tuscany confirmed that we are doing it right! I think we both had some doubts about the future at the beginning of these vacations. And the first few days required some adjustments. It is often like that when we see each other after a long period of separation. At the end, we were both convinced that we wanted to take this relationship further. This was confirmed when we met a week later in Oslo for a long weekend. Yay! (by the way, if you are looking for a great place to stay in Tuscany with wonderful hosts, I can strongly recommend the Torre di Ponzano).

I can easily get enthusiastic about new things when I travel and, of course, I am now obsessed by all things Italian: pasta, pizza, wine, but also panforte, vino santo and truffles (ok, truffles might not be only Italian but I had quite a bit in Tuscany and I am now totally addicted). Unfortunately, It is not easy to find real Italian stuff in Stockholm. I have been looking at menus every day and none of the Italian restaurants I have found in Stockholm look like the real thing in Tuscany. However, I knew of a café where I had been a few times and today was the time to blog about it! Espresso Bar Sempre!

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I was quite reassured when I heard the guys behind the counter speak Italian to one of the customers. I had been there a few times before, but always at lunch time during the week when the place was packed with Swedish workers. I was however confident that the place was Italian because a colleague of mine, who is very proud of his Italian origins, always want to come here for coffee.

I just had breakfast at Café Égoiste so I knew I would not eat much at Sempre. This is probably better this way. Even though they seem to have a few sandwiches, I am convinced that one should really focus on the Italian treats at Sempre. And this is what I did with my double espresso.

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It’s a good thing that I am a reasonable man (!), otherwise I would have spent the entire afternoon at Sempre, drinking coffee… and eating sweets. The espresso was amazing! The sweets were great, and so tempting!

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I was also tempted by the biscotti, although these were easier to resist since I have now decided that I would eat biscotti only with vino santo. Now I regret I did not take some to bring home with me for tonight!

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Sempre is close enough from my office that I will want to go every day. Unfortunately (or thankfully?), the nice summer days will soon be over and the wet season will probably restrain me in my enthusiasm. I know, however, that I will stop at Sempre every time I am in the neighborhood, which is quite often!

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Sempre, Jakobsbergsgatan 5, 111 44 Stockholm

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Café Égoiste: Great… if you stick to basics

Well, this is it. This is September. Even though it felt like a nice summer day today in Stockholm. But after a really quiet summer, I found the week a bit tough. Mind you, I was in Tuscany for three weeks (see next post for some details) so the concept of getting up every morning to get to work was difficult to accept. And this was not your ordinary “welcome back to September week”… no, President Obama was in town. Of course, this had very little to do with me, but it just added to this feeling that the holidays were really over. As a result, I decided to have a nap last night to ease into the weekend. Well, that nap turned into a nine-hour night of sleep, until I woke up this morning at 5:00. I felt bad for missing out on a Friday night, but I was decided to make up for it and go for a run… which I eventually did! And during the run, I also thought that it was high time to be a bit more regular on the blogging thing. So, the first blog of the 2013-2014 season would be a tribute to my trip to Tuscany… but I got distracted on my way there!

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I had heard of Café Égoiste before but I had always avoided it because I was not a big fan of the Café being in a shopping mall. Actually, I had forgotten about it and I was surprised to see it as I was crossing the said shopping mall to reach the previously targeted Café. by that time, I was really hungry  and pleasantly surprised to note that (a) the shopping mall does not really look like a shopping mall in North American, and (b) Café Égoiste has a very nice spot in the said mall which makes that one could forget it is actually in a mall. I did not hesitate very long when I realized that they had eggs benedict on the menu!

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Unfortunately, the eggs benedict were not as good as they looked! First, they were a bit cold. And I would have liked to see some fries as we get with eggs benedict in North America. That being said, I will admit that they were fine for Stockholm’s standards, where eggs benedict are rather difficult to find. I was also a bit surprised by the efficiency of the service: at one point I got up to get a glass of water and immediately a girl was there to take my plate away, even though it was still half full. Thankfully she left it there, but she managed to take it away from me when there were still some food left in it. To be fair, I was done and I can only assume that she had understood that from the way I had placed my fork and knife in the plate…

Now, on the plus side, the cappuccino and the freshly pressed orange juice I had with breakfast were perfect. And I will definitely go back to Café Égoiste. But next time I will have the traditional kanelbulle or, even better, the Kardemummabulle! And you know why? Well, I could tell you that Café Égoiste is linked to Saturnus, which always had the reputation of having the biggest bullar in town. But I will let you see by yourself!

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Café Égoiste also has a wonderful patio which makes perfect for a summer brunch. It helps forgetting that you are in a mall.

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I can’t wait to go back to Café Égoiste and have one of the Kardemummabullar. Actually, this will probably be one of my lunches this week!

Again, congratulations to Café Égoiste for having done an excellent job at creating a cool atmosphere in what could have been just another mall café.

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Café Égoiste, Norrlandsgatan 13 (Mood Stockholm), 111 44 Stockholm

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Café Foam: soft & hard & soft again

What a difference a day makes! Last night I went to bed feeling quite annoyed with the long distance thing. 12 hours and a nice message later, I am still annoyed with the whole thing but I am feeling much more confident that the holidays coming up next week will be great. And since I live in a country where the temperature rarely goes above 25 (this week being the exception) and that I will be travelling to a place where the average temperature is above 30, I needed to do some shopping today. Now, I don’t want to generalize (too late), but like most guys I am not a big fan of shopping. I usually need a good incentive. Thankfully, I was in a much better mood today than yesterday. That helped. In addition, I had decided that I would pay a visit to Café Foam in Östermalm when I’d be done. Suddenly going shopping almost sounded like a treat.

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I first heard of Café Foam through Facebook. Actually, through some of my friends who live in that area and would regularly “check in” at Café Foam on Facebook. I was curious but never made the effort to go all the way to Karlavägan for coffee on a weekend. Well, that was a mistake. But better late than never! I really liked Café Foam: the staff was extremely friendly and they only spoke Swedish to me, even though the place was filled with foreigners (most Stockholmers are somewhere in the archipelago or at their stuga these days); the atmosphere was pretty good, even though most people were sitting outside in the sun; the coffee was great; and it looks like Café Fresco may have some competition on the carrot cake!

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Café Foam has a very nice menu from which you can order at the back of the café. In the short time I was there, I saw a lot of customers picking up take out. I would probably do that too if I’d live in Östermalm. If one wants to avoid the temptations of the carrot cake and other sweets, one can order coffee at the front counter. However, this is not totally free of temptations as that counter also has some macaroons and bullar on display!

The food menu

The food menu

The coffee counter

The coffee counter

It is a beautiful day today in Stockholm and most patrons at Foam decided to take advantage of the tables on the sidewalk. With the café being right on the street corner and across a nice park, the outside option offers both tables in the sun and in the shades. Café Foam is even open until 9:00 pm from Monday to Thursday, and until 7:00pm the other days. Really, everything seems perfect at Café Foam!

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Café Foam, Karlavägen 75, 114 49 Sockholm (Östermalm).

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Louie Louie: a cappuccino and a beer on a hot summer afternoon

I have the feeling that there is a new trend on this blog: most articles start with a story about running! The truth is, I don’t do it for the sole purpose of bragging (after all, this blog does not have enough readers to use it for bragging) but mostly to motivate myself. You see, the more I talk about my runs, the more I feel obligated to run. So, keeping with this new tradition, my day started today with a 15k run. I did not expect much from this run since it was preceded the night before by a scotch night! To my great surprise, I managed to do 15k, and was not too far from my personal best 😉

People run for different reasons. I do it for the rewards. I run because I want to eat and drink. I run because I don’t want to feel guilty when I take a piece of cake with my coffee on a Saturday afternoon. This is particularly useful given the fika culture in Sweden and the number of cafés I visit every week.

I had made plans to meet with friends at 17:00 at Mosebacke today, so I decided to stay in Södermalm for my afternoon coffee. I knew exactly where I wanted to go. I wanted to go to that place in Södermalm which I had seen so many times and never managed to go because it was always full. And there is a reason why it is always full. That café is one of the coolest cafés in Stockholm: Louie Louie.

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As I was approaching Louie Louie from Nytorget, I could see that it would be a struggle to get a table outside. But right there in the corner, there was a table waiting for me! I looked around and did not see any potential customers on the streets so I went inside, confident that I would have enough time to order and go back to the corner table. And I had… Thankfully the waitress quickly came to clean my table!

The first minutes

The first minutes

A few minutes later... with kidture!

A few minutes later… with kidture!

Louie Louie is a perfect urban café. Right in the heart of SoFo but far enough from Nytorget to avoid the tourists and Stockholmers from outside of Södermalm. I can also easily imagine myself at Louie Louie inside on a cold winter morning.

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The cappuccino was really good. However, since today was by far the hottest day of the summer in Stockholm, I needed something more refreshing. And as you can see from the picture above, Louie Louie happens to have beer. And the Södra one on top of it. How appropriate for a hot Södermalm afternoon!

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While this was a light beer (probably the only kind that Louie Louie can serve), it hit the right spot. First, it helped dealing with the heat. It was also more appropriate to accompany me in my thoughts. Long distance relationships are never easy. While I shouldn’t complain too much – after all we manage to see each other more or less every month – there are days when I find it more difficult than others. This has been the case in the last few days when I could feel the distance hitting me stronger than usual. I probably felt it more than usual because I had the feeling of doing everything I could to get closer and yet the result was totally different. Everybody needs its space and time. I get that. Most of the time. Obviously I feel less comfortable in that situation when the distance is also a question of geography. Thankfully we will see each other soon for three weeks of holidays… By the time I was done with my light beer, I was feeling light again, knowing for sure that everything would be allright. It was simply a question of a few days.

It was time to leave. I had friends to meet. And Louie Louie was closing anyway. That is a bit unfortunate as I am sure that people would love to hang out there at night too. But that would probably mean getting an alcohol permit and, well, this is getting complicated.

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Oh, and Louie Louie is also a record shop (check out the 4th picture). That’s pretty cool. Louie Louie also has a great menu. And apparently it offers a wonderful burger on Mondays. Now, with the opening hours and my working hours, this could be a challenge. I may have to take a Monday off sooner than later!

Louie Louie, Bondegatan 13, 116 23 Stockholm (Södermalm)

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Café Fresco: when you deserve the best carrot cake in town

About a year ago, I said on this blog that I was giving up the hope of ever running a half marathon under two hours. And I was totally fine with it. Despite being a slow runner, I still enjoy the atmosphere, the camaraderie, around a run. I also enjoy the time I have only to myself to think about everything and anything during a run (0n this subject, I suggest you read a recent post from my friend sparrow in the tree top: the creative runner). But then recently I met someone who made me realize the importance of being healthy. I got a bit more serious about training and, most of the time, about food. As a result, I ran an official 10k in 52’35” a couple of weeks ago. And this morning I ran 10k under 50 minutes for the first time! That’s how I ended up at Café Fresco this afternoon!

Earlier this spring, a friend of mine took me to Fresco. She lives in that posh area of town (Östermalm) and also knows the owner and/or the staff. It’s not like I need much convincing to visit a new café, but even at the time she told me that Fresco had the best – and the largest pieces of, carrot cake in town. Well, she was right.

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Carrot cakes are fairly common in Sweden. However, in most places the cake is served as a small square which is usually thinner than the icing only at Fresco! Don’t get me wrong. It’s not only because of the size! Although, I understand that sometimes size does matter, especially when it is a good cake!

Fresco also serves nice coffee. Today I had a cappuccino and I was pleasantly surprised to see that coffee at Fresco is served with a nice square of chocolate. The small details that make a difference.

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As I was sitting at Fresco, enjoying the carrot cake and the cappuccino, I had a quick exchange of emails with the girl for whom I decided to get healthy and managed to run 10k under 50 minutes (ok, forget the carrot cake for a minute!). It was interesting to realize that despite the challenges and frustration that come with distance, we both still enjoy those moments of loneliness. I believe that these moments of loneliness would be even better if distance was not part of our story, but the fact that we can still appreciate it is very positive. That’s probably why I like cafés so much. They allow us to be alone with other people, to see people without having to interact with them if we don’t feel like it.

Café Fresco is a great place to see people and remain alone, especially in summer. The place has a huge outdoor sitting area which gives on a pedestrian street of stockholm. Unfortunately, as of July 2013, there is some work being done on that street which, hopefully, will be done quickly.

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Café Fresco has a great location. Great food. Friendly staff. It is a bit far from home but this will certainly become a favourite in Östermalm. Next time I will try to avoid the carrot cake and have one of the sallads, which all looked delicious.

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That being said, if I return to Fresco on a running day, I might indulge and have a small piece of chocolate cake!

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Café Fresco, Grev Turegatan 10, 114 46 Stockholm

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